Tim Reviews: Christmas Markets on the Danube With AmaWaterways
If you want to see the best Christmas Markets in Europe without packing and unpacking every few days, the AmaWaterways Christmas Market river cruise on the Danube on the AmaMagna is the answer. I used to be a river cruise skeptic, but this double-wide ship destroyed all my assumptions about small rooms, tiny showers, bland food and limited excursion options. This past December, I joined Anne on the AmaMagna and explored markets and attractions from Budapest, Hungary to Vilshofen, Germany.
AmaMagna Christmas Market Cruise
Don’t want to read all this? Here’s the jist: I strongly recommend the AmaMagna Christmas Market Cruise on the Danube. Even though it’s an aggressively paced itinerary, the quality of the ship, dining and entertainment, the diversity of the itinerary, and the convenience of having a floating hotel make this an A+ experience.
AmaMagna’s double-wide design provides a much less claustrophobic feeling in the rooms and communal spaces than ordinary river cruise ships. The spacious shower alone was an amazing feature for this longer cruise.
The food on the AmaMagna was great and options varied enough that we never got bored with the menus.
AmaMagna’s onboard entertainment was fun and diverse with a cinema room, a spa, a pickle ball court, heated pool, nightly live entertainment and more.
The crew of the AmaMagna provided spectacular service. The entertainers, bartenders, housekeeping, chefs and servers were all top notch and we never had an issue. Every day on the ship was diverse enough that you never get tired of the setting.
The AmaMagna’s itineraries at each stop were great. There were options for every type of traveler, with choices for everyone from heavy cyclists (bikes provided) to day drinkers, with lots of accessible options from what I could see. No port felt rushed.
The Christmas Markets in the cities and towns along the Danube all had a unique flavor of their own, which kept the concept from getting too stale.
The Journey: A Day-by-Day Itinerary
Budapest: Strudels, Spas, and Starting the Season
We started our adventure in Budapest with dinner at the original Strudel House. The poultry strudel and beef goulash were standout dishes. We visited several markets, including the large St. Stephen’s Basilica Market and the more playful Vorosmarty Square Market. A unique highlight was the Thermal Beer Spa at Széchenyi Thermal Bath, where we relaxed in private beer tubs before braving the cold for the geothermal heated outdoor pools. I think it was worth it for us to come in a day early so we could experience more of the city and get a lay of the land before our official excursion to Buda Castle.
Bratislava: A Taste of Slovakia
In Bratislava, we took a "Tastes of Slovakia" excursion. We explored the Old Town, with our guide, Ava, and tried local brews and meats at the House of Beer. As we worked our way back to the ship we tried potato cakes at the small Town Hall Christmas Market, some bryndzové halušky at a local shop and wandered around the Theater Square Christmas Market drinking gluhwein and apple punch. It was nice that we docked right there at the entrance to the Old Town, and we were able to take our time with the area instead of spending it in buses trying to reach our destination.
Vienna: The Epicenter of Christmas Cheer
Vienna offered a grand scale of festive spirit. We explored the Innere Stadt, visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and explored the Kunsthandwerksmarkt am Hof in the first district. Lots of crafts. We tried orangenpunsch for the first time… one of my least favorite drinks we tried, but they can’t all be winners.
Next we found Altwiener Ostermarkt which was similar to Am Hof in that it was smaller and had small goods to give as gifts. Tons of ornaments here.
Then we enjoyed massive servings of schnitzel at Dom Schnitzel and headed to the famous Demel Cafe for kaiserschmarrn for dessert.
The day ended at the Schönbrunn Palace Christmas Market, which was by far the largest and most impressive market we encountered, featuring a stunning palace backdrop. This was probably my favorite of the markets because it had everything that comes to mind when someone says “Christmas Market” It was large, kids were running around everywhere, the light from the setting sun and then the twinkling of all the lights on the cute wooden kiosks and stands was perfect, rides, great food and tons of mulled wine and hot chocolate.
The Wachau Valley: Apricots and Abbeys
As we moved into the Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We visited Dürnstein for an apricot and sweets tasting. This small, medieval town is famous for its apricot products, and I brought home several liquors and jams.
We also visited Melk Abbey, a sprawling and ostentatious complex with massive libraries. This was another place that made me curious about summer cruising, because the Abbey is home to a park that’s known as “the Garden of Eden” and they’re supposed to be beautiful in the summer.
The day ended with a mini-Oktoberfest wine tasting at a local winery. That wasn’t all that impressive, and the wine was only okay. It was interesting to get an understanding of the differences between traditional German and traditional Wachau Valley Oktoberfest, but I’d honestly skip it next time and focus on a good dinner on the ship.
Linz and the Three-River City of Passau
In Linz (UNESCO city of Media Arts), we took a walking tour of the Old Town. It was a fine tour, and the guide was very knowledgeable, but honestly I was a little burned out by this time. While the ladies went to hunt down more Christmas markets, I took a much-needed relaxation day on the ship.
In Passau, we learned about the city's history of flooding where the Danube, Inn, and Ilz rivers meet on the “Passau Three Rivers Walking Tour” excursion. At the top of the hill, visited another St. Stephen’s Cathedral (yes, another one) and enjoyed a small but delightful Christmas market in the Cathedral Square, where I was introduced to hot eggnog. Don’t knock it, till you’ve tried it, because it was one of my favorite drinks on the whole trip.
Vilshofen: The Floating Market and Krampus
Our final cruise destination was Vilshofen, home to the Floating Christmas Market. This market was home to a fun 9 meter mulled wine pyramid. There were live performers, shops and good food. We tried langos, a traditional Hungarian dish, that we didn’t get to try back in Budapest and one of our friends went crazy at the candied nuts stand.
While unassuming during the day, the market came alive at night with a Krampus Parade—a choreographed spectacle involving dozens of locals in elaborate costumes. This was a unique experience that we had not encountered at any other market, and turned an okay port into a great one.
Bavarian Extension: Munich and Neuschwanstein Castle
After disembarking, we headed to Munich. We visited the massive market at Marienplatz and the Medieval Christmas Market at Wittelsbacherplatz, where we tried Feuerzangenbowle (rum-soaked sugar set on fire over mulled wine).
A bonus day trip took us to Neuschwanstein Castle (the "Fairy Tale Castle.") The Bavarian countryside was breathtaking, and the iconic view from Marienbrücke (Mary's Bridge) was a highlight, despite the crowds.
Conclusion: Is the Danube Christmas Cruise Worth It?
Christmas Markets are a bucket list item for many, and the AmaMagna was the key to my enjoyment of the trip. The ship’s functional upgrades, high-quality food, and unique itinerary destinations made it a success.
Splurge on the extra days in the anchor ports. Both Budapest and Bavaria are worthy of their own full scale vacations, but with the added days you can really turn your cruise into something even more special. The post-cruise extension to Munich and the day trip to Neuschwanstein Castle made for a truly epic finale to the whole trip.
Travelers should be prepared for a busy pace and cold December weather, but for the more laid back traveler who wants to see Europe without the logistics of moving luggage between hotels every couple of days, the AmaMagna is an amazing option. If you take the time to choose the excursions that fit you and know when to take a break, any style traveler will truly enjoy this high-pace adventure.
