We stepped off the train in the smallest station we’ve seen since we got to Japan. Our J-Rail Passes had gotten us this far, but now we were on our own. We make a call, and a tall guy shows up in a small van. We hop in and wind through a town nestled along the Chikuma River that looks like it could be straight out of the Midwest… except for one thing, there’s steaming hot water everywhere. Bus stops, fountains, and more.

Welcome to Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen, an old fashioned hot spring town in Nagano Prefecture. Because it is a volcanically active chain of islands, Japan has thousands of hot springs. At the top our bucket list was staying at a Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, usually around a hot spring. We stayed at the Kamesei (Holy Turtle) Ryokan. A lovely little inn with traditional tatami-matted rooms, its own private hot springs, and a lovely couple calling the shots. Tyler Lynch, a white guy from Seattle, and his wife Mari (her family owns the ryokan) are the Proprietors-in-Training.

When you roll up to the ryokan, your name is visible on the welcome sign outside the inn….in Japanese. It’s these little details that made our visit special. Our accommodations were a spacious suite with a living/dining area and a bedroom. After some tea, we donned our slippers (no shoes inside the inn) and yukata (casual version of a kimono) and made our way to the dining room.

We were treated to an 11-course meal. Thinly sliced sashimi, a stew boiled right at the table, bioluminescent squid, savory custard, and a fish cooked so slowly that you could eat every piece of it from the head to the tail. 11 courses may sound like a lot, but the portions were small and manageable, and made for an exquisite dining experience.

Our first night we were treated to a private performance from real geishas, complete with a shamisen (traditional three-stringed Japanese instrument). The geishas treated us to classic folk songs and dances, and even taught us a new drinking game: Konpira funefune. You face each other and alternate between touching the box or pulling it away. If the box is pulled away, you have to knock on the table with your fist. If you lose, you drink. Sounds easy, but it’s not.

To cap off our first night we took a dip in the onsen. There are male only, female only and a private “family” bath available at Kamesei Ryokan. We went in February, so I was nervous about being in my skivvies outside. The air was nice and crisp at night, but the natural hot spring (think hot tub level temperatures) with its light sulfur scent, made the evening perfect. The waters here have a unique mineral composition that grants them the nickname “beauty water”. The area is popular with women as the waters are thought to smooth skin and have anti-aging properties. It’s also said to help with sore muscles, worries, stiff joints, bruises, and stomach issues.

Day 2 started with an 8 course breakfast. We relaxed most of the morning and explored the small town in the afternoon. There are 7 public baths, a temple, and other more modern attractions, restaurants and sites to take in. Strolling around is relaxing, and anytime you get the urge you can dip your feet into one of the mini springs. Tyler has made it his mission to make the town more accessible to foreign tourists than most small towns in Japan. Menus at the restaurants we checked out had English, entertainment and rides were easy to book at the desk, and more of those small details helped make not just the inn, but the entire town a great experience. That evening, our second 11-course dinner included surprises like fermented soy beans, eel stew, and horse sashimi… yep, raw horse! I was nervous trying it at first, but after Tim told me how good it was, I couldn’t resist.

One of the best things about staying in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen is its proximity to Nagano. The site of the 1998 Winter Olympics. We took a short train ride into town (thanks again J-Rail) and took in the sites. Delicious ramen, sake tasting at Nishinomon-Yoshiinoya, and a hunt for the 7 god statues scattered around the city. We only found 2, ‘Longevity’ and ‘Victory’, but it was fun looking. There was an adorable ninja store for kids, and plenty of tasty street food. We also checked out the famous Zenkoji Temple. Unlike many of the other temples we had visited in Japan, you were actually allowed to go into this elaborate shrine. We originally went to Nagano to look for snow monkeys, but there was so much to do we never did accomplish that mission.

Back in Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen for our final night, we opted out of dinner at the ryokan and Tyler recommended we check out Oyaki Shichifuku Inshokuten. We made our way through the dark streets of the town. Geishas and locals hung out and made the town lively. We made our way down a dark alley, past a ghost hotel and found a tiny home that fit the description. When we walked in we were greeted by a little old lady who ran the entire operation. It was a spacious but cozy location, and we got to try all types of Oyaki (stuffed Japanese dumplings). Eggplant, Komatsuna (Japanese mustard spinach), garlic chives, and my favorite, red bean paste. We also got the more familiar gyoza, shumai, and plenty of beer and sake.

One last night in the onsen bath, and one last breakfast in the morning, and we were on our way on another adventure.